Running Toilets, Part Three
Toilet Still Running, More Suggestions
In our continuing saga of the running toilet, if the problem isn’t the fault of the flapper valve, then the culprit has to be the mechanism that shuts off the water when the tank is full. When it does not stop the excess spills into overflow tube and into the bowl. Again, there may be a couple of causes.
The flow of water is regulated by a float device, usually a lightweight ball on a rod attached to a ball and cock assembly. Newer toilets may have a Fluidmaster type assembly which has a float rather than a ball but operates on pretty much the same principal. As the tank fills the ball and rod rise with it, first slowing then stopping the water flow when the level is about 1 inch from the top of the overflow tube. Fill the tank and raise the ball to the top of its arc with your hand. If the water stops then the adjustment is probably pretty simple. Finger-tighten the knob at the top of the ball and cock assembly where it meets the rod until the water stops. Alternatively, is the ball rubbing against the tank or is the rod bent downward? The rod has pretty good tolerance – just bend it back into position, either upward or away from the tank wall. If the rod is threaded it may help to shorten or lengthen it slightly by screwing it further into the ball and cock assembly. The ball itself may be taking on water and sinking below the water line. With the tank empty check the ball for sloshing and if necessary replace the ball.
If the toilet is still running please refer to the first sentence of our first installment on fixing toilets: “For such a simple mechanism there sure are a lot of things that can go wrong with a toilet.”
Would we lie?
With other alternatives exhausted we have to assume that the problem is with the intake valve which will have to be replaced.
Turn off the water at the supply valve, empty the tank and sponge out any remaining water. Pull off the water supply tube at the top of the ball and cock assembly. The intake valve is fastened to the domestic water supply by a nut and bolt on the underside of the tank. With a wrench unscrew the nut but do not force it; the porcelain tank can crack under pressure. Treat a reluctant nut with Liquid Wrench or WD-40 and wait a few minutes. With the nut undone, pull the assembly from the tank. A new assembly will cost about $15 and to install it, just reverse the procedure above.
If, after all of this the toilet is still not operating correctly we have three final words of advice.
Call a plumber! Get some more simple plumbing tips from our San Diego plumbers.
(No Ratings Yet)
Loading ...Related Info
- Leaky Toilets
- Leaky Toilets, Part Two
- Common Plumbing Problem Fixes
- Calcium Buildup
- Tips for Choosing the Best Showerhead