If you are like most homeowners, the first thing you think about when you have a backed up drain is what kind of drain cleaner you should try. However, many people don’t realize that drain cleaners often cause more problems than they solve. Before reaching for the nearest chemical, consider the following issues.

Commercial Cleaner

Commercial cleaners can be found at nearly any local supermarket and there are many different brands to choose from. It is therefore important to look at the ingredients before making a purchase. Many drain cleaners contain harsh chemicals that might include pollutants. The long term effects of these toxic ingredients are detrimental to the environment, your health, and the insides of your pipes. Overly harsh chemicals can strip, corrode, and rust the metal of your pipes. This kind of damage weakens pipes and makes them susceptible to cracking. If you spring a leak, you will end up paying more than if you had just hired a plumber to unclog the drain for you.

Natural Cleaner

A more natural solution to clear your clogged drains is to use a natural, homemade drain cleaner. This recipe has been in existence for years and it is still popular because the fumes are not overbearing, and you do not need to worry about polluting the environment.

1. Bring 1 gallon of water to a boil and add half a lemon in
2. Pour 1/2 cup of baking soda into the clogged drain
3. Dump 1 cup of white vinegar over the baking soda inside the drain
4. Let the mix foam for 20 minutes
5. Pour boiling water into drainpipe

If you still have problems with your clogged drain after you have tried the holistic method, then you should consider calling in an expert plumber. Skilled technicians have all the necessary tools to clean and unclog even the worst of drains. Call a local company that has the best deals for cleaning your drains.

What is a slab leak and why worry about it?

The slab foundation is the concrete foundation beneath your home. Incoming water pipes and outgoing sewer lines run underneath the slab foundation, and cracks or holes in underlying pipes cause water to leak under the foundation. This is called a slab leak, and it has the potential to cause extensive damage to the structure. To protect your home from serious water damage, it is essential to recognize warning signs that indicate the presence of a slab leak.

Why do slab leaks occur?

Homeowners face several repair jobs in the house, generally due to normal wear of building materials, but sometimes resulting from design flaws or poor execution of construction. Slab leaks can be caused by a number of factors. Sometimes a slab leak occurs because of slight nicks on pipes created in the building phase that then wear out and become cracks allowing water leakage. Hot water pipes are especially susceptible to slab leaks, since the pipes contract and expand with normal cooling and heating. The chemical content of water can also cause pipes to wear out prematurely; the harder the water the more likely a slab leak will occur, and the pH of the water is also an important factor. The foundation of the house can occasionally shift, pulling pipes apart and creating a slab leak. Another reason for slab leaks is the use of bad quality plumbing materials and poor craftsmanship during construction.

How to detect a slab leak?

Every homeowner should be aware of the signs that point to a possible slab leak in the foundation, and make sure proper action is taken to repair the slab leak. The following check list is a good tool for detecting slab leaks:

• Significant increase in your water or electricity bill: if you notice that your water or electricity bill suddenly jumps, it may be due to a slab leak.
• Visible wet or damp stains on carpet or flooring: a slab leak can sometimes reach the flooring, creating noticeable spots or stains.
• Reduced water pressure: if you notice a decrease in water pressure, it may be caused by a slab leak.
• Settling of the foundation: when an actual shifting of the home’s foundation is felt, a slab leak may have occurred.

How are slab leaks fixed?

Repairing a slab leak is a multi-step process and in most cases requires a skilled slab leak repair professional to successfully complete the task. The first step is to locate the exact spot of the slab leak underneath the foundation. Next, flooring or carpeting, including all furniture and fixtures need to be removed to allow access to the concrete foundation covering the slab leak. The concrete foundation, usually around 4 inches thick, is then drilled to expose the slab leak in the pipe. Once the slab leak is visible, the damaged pipes are fixed and the hole is again filled with concrete, after which all flooring or carpeting is replaced.

Why choose a full service company to repair a slab leak?

As explained above, slab leaks are not one of the simplest plumbing jobs because the process of fixing a slab leak requires making a hole to the concrete foundation before the slab leak can be repaired. Furthermore, selecting a reputable company to reliably finish the job is essential to ensure that the slab leak repair is completed with accuracy and professionalism to prevent future slab leaks.

Because of the complexity of slab leak issues, most companies only offer to fix the damaged piping causing the slab leak, forcing the homeowner to contact another service company to make a hole in the concrete, and subsequently close the hole. 1800 AnyTyme is a full service company that handles slab leak repairs from start to finish, down to the thorough clean-up of the site after the slab leak is repaired and the foundation is intact. This is to ensure that the homeowner receives the most efficient and least disruptive service and the damage caused by the slab leak is diminished.

If you have more than one clog in your house then it is time to clean the main drain. A backed up main line often causes a sink clog, at the same time as a bathtub or toilet clog.

To fix the main line you will need:

• wrench
• waste bucket
• plumber’s snake
• garden hose

1. Go to your basement or crawl space and locate the vertical large drain pipes. These are the main line pipes. Some people find their main lines in the pantry closet, or garage. Find the plugs on the pipes which are sometimes located outside along the foundation of your house.

2. Use your wrench to loosen the square fitted caps on the plugs. Make sure to have your waste bucket handy for any immediate release.

3. Insert the your plumber’s snake in both directions of pipe to break up any blockage. If you have a tough obstruction, a high pressure water blast from your garden hose might help loosen the debris.

4. Finish by tightly screwing the square cap back on the main drain.

What Is a Tankless Water Heater?

Tankless water heaters, also called demand or instantaneous water heaters, heat water as needed without storing it in a traditional, bulky hot water tank. In an old-fashioned water heating system, hot water is stored in a tank, and a large quantity of water is constantly being heated to supply hot water to all faucets and appliances in the home. A tankless water heater on the other hand heats the water whenever a faucet or shower is turned on, eliminating the need for hot water tanks that waste energy by heating the water even when no one is using it. Having “on tap” hot water eliminates system operation in little or non-use periods such as night time or when you’re at work. Installing a tankless water heater will bring in energy savings and a tax credit of up to $1,500 is available to home owners who increase their home’s efficiency with one of these systems.

How Do Tankless Water Heaters Work?

The technology behind tankless water heaters is not all that complex. Homeowners who are used to the idea of traditional water heaters might initially question whether a tankless system can supply enough hot water at the right temperature when needed, but in fact a tankless system creates an endless supply of hot water. A tankless water heater is installed either at the point of use, for instance underneath the sink, or like a traditional water heater anywhere in the house. A built-in computer inside the tankless water heater unit detects when a hot water tap is turned on and burners inside the unit instantly turn on, heating the water as it flows through the tankless water heater, supplying the home with virtually endless supply of hot water. When the faucet is turned off, the burners inside the tankless water heater automatically turn off and the system sets itself to a stand-by mode.

Why Switch to a Tankless Water Heater?

There are several benefits to replacing your old hot water tank with an energy-efficient tankless water heater:

1. Save money and protect the environment

   Because there is no need to constantly heat water stored in a large tank, tankless water heaters save money on your energy bill. A large chunk of a home owner’s energy bill is comprised of the cost of heating water, up to 30% of the entire energy usage of a household. This cost can be significantly reduced by replacing a hot water tank with a tankless water heating system. In addition to monetary savings, just by switching to a modern tankless water heating system you are reducing your daily energy consumption and benefiting the environment by reducing your carbon footprint. The government also provides a tax credit of up to $1,500 for switching to a tankless water heater, details for which can be found below.

2. Endless hot water supply

   Tankless water heaters come in all sizes to fit your unique water heating requirements that depend on household size and the number of appliances that use hot water, for instance a dishwasher and washer. When you choose a tankless water heater system optimized for your hot water needs, you will not run out of hot water because it is heated on demand, instead of being supplied from a storage tank that can run out of hot water when it is most needed.

3. Save much needed space

   By definition, tankless water heaters do not have a storage tank, and the units are much smaller in size and can fit underneath the sink or in a closet.

$1,500 Tax Credit for Installing a Tankless Water Heater

The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009, signed last February by President Obama, significantly increased the amount of tax credits available to consumers who switch from high energy consumption systems to energy efficient systems, such as gas tankless water heaters. The tax incentive covers 30% of the cost of the tankless water heating system, including installation costs, for a maximum amount of $1,500. Most gas, oil and propane powered tankless water heaters installed by the end of 2010 qualify for the tax credit, giving you a great reason for going tankless now.

Getting Started on Tankless Water Heater Installation

The first step when going tankless is to find out which model perfectly fits your needs and research reliable companies for professional installation service. Replacing your old water heater may seem like a formidable task, but experienced professionals with the expertise and top notch tools handle tankless water heater installations and clean-up efficiently without a hassle.

 Thwart the Garden Hose Death Wish

 Garden hoses are a pretty cheap item but if you must buy two or three a year, the cost mounts up.  It’s not that they aren’t well-made – some are as tough as a truck tires, but they are self-destructive.  They dash in front of lawn mowers, sunbathe in the driveway, taunt the neighbor’s dog and exhibit any number of other risky behaviors that lead to rips, punctures and broken or flattened faucet or sprayer connections. 

Fortunately it is also cheap and easy to repair a hose as good as new; shorter perhaps, but just as good.

You will need a Phillips head screwdriver, a very sharp utility knife, and hose couplers like those pictured below. 

There are several different kinds of couplers and ends, and a few sizes.  Cut a ring out of the damaged part of the hose and take it with you to the hardware store to make sure you get the right fit.  The hose ends are either male (sprayer end of the hose) or female (faucet end) and can be used to replace a dented end or to reunite two pieces of a hose that has been cut or punctured.  The two-hose coupler will permanently mend the hose into a single piece.  Get some more simple plumbing tips from our San Diego plumbers.

Open a Drain – no HazMat Suit Required

When the bathroom sink is clogged we immediately reach for the “drain cleaner.” It’s what millions of dollars in advertising has trained us to do.

But even as we read the directions on the label, “Open carefully. Do not squeeze bottle. Avoid splashing. Clean up spills at once. Keep hands, face and children away from drains while using…” and while we open carefully, being sure not to squeeze the bottle, we wonder. If this stuff is so nasty who is warning the fish and the ducks and the beavers who might be living, swimming, and eating in the water somewhere downstream from our newly opened drain?

Traditional drain cleaners are bad stuff. They are caustic, will burn right through rubber gloves, heck they have been used as a lethal weapon in more than one gristly horror novel.

But there are alternatives that are as effective, cheaper, and safer for humans, pipes, and the environment.

First, there are natural products that will open a clogged drain or, used regularly, keep the drain from clogging in the first place. There are also mechanical ways of cleaning out the pipes which can be employed by any do-it-yourselfer.

First the natural products.

A slow running drain can often be speeded up with a simple dose of very hot water. Many experts advise not to use boiling water if the pipes are PVC, but a temperature just short of boiling should be OK. Kitchen clogs are often caused by a build up of grease and really hot water will dissolve and move it and any food particles caught in it down and out.

Another solution for a minor clog – one where some water is still getting through – is to dissolve ½ cup of salt in 4 quarts of water and heat to just short of boiling. Pour it slowly down the drain.

A cup or so of dry baking soda poured down the drain followed by that hot water will also clear stoppages.

But there is a big Kahuna of homemade drain cleaners. The same mixture used to power grade school plaster-of-Paris volcanoes should certainly win out over a bit of soap and hair. Pour a cup of baking soda into the drain and follow it with a cup of white or apple cider vinegar. It will fizz and foam like crazy. Let it work for an hour or more then flush it with about a gallon of very hot water.

There are some commercial drain cleaners that use enzymes or bacteria rather than lye or acids and are eco-friendly. The enzyme cleaners (Earth Friendly is one brand) are supposedly not as effective as bacterial cleaners such as Drainbo. Both must be allowed to work for a long period of time, usually overnight, but the bacterial cleaners supposedly sprout colonies of bacteria within the pipes which continue to eliminate grease and the oily or waxy ingredients in shower gels and shampoos. These cleaners (and reviews from users) can be found on-line. Some hardware stores also stock them.

If these cures don’t work you will have to resort to mechanical means. We will talk about the proper use of plungers and snakes next.

Toilet Still Running, More Suggestions

In our continuing saga of the running toilet, if the problem isn’t the fault of the flapper valve, then the culprit has to be the mechanism that shuts off the water when the tank is full. When it does not stop the excess spills into overflow tube and into the bowl. Again, there may be a couple of causes.

The flow of water is regulated by a float device, usually a lightweight ball on a rod attached to a ball and cock assembly. Newer toilets may have a Fluidmaster type assembly which has a float rather than a ball but operates on pretty much the same principal. As the tank fills the ball and rod rise with it, first slowing then stopping the water flow when the level is about 1 inch from the top of the overflow tube. Fill the tank and raise the ball to the top of its arc with your hand. If the water stops then the adjustment is probably pretty simple. Finger-tighten the knob at the top of the ball and cock assembly where it meets the rod until the water stops. Alternatively, is the ball rubbing against the tank or is the rod bent downward? The rod has pretty good tolerance – just bend it back into position, either upward or away from the tank wall. If the rod is threaded it may help to shorten or lengthen it slightly by screwing it further into the ball and cock assembly. The ball itself may be taking on water and sinking below the water line. With the tank empty check the ball for sloshing and if necessary replace the ball.

If the toilet is still running please refer to the first sentence of our first installment on fixing toilets: “For such a simple mechanism there sure are a lot of things that can go wrong with a toilet.”

Would we lie?
With other alternatives exhausted we have to assume that the problem is with the intake valve which will have to be replaced.
Turn off the water at the supply valve, empty the tank and sponge out any remaining water. Pull off the water supply tube at the top of the ball and cock assembly. The intake valve is fastened to the domestic water supply by a nut and bolt on the underside of the tank. With a wrench unscrew the nut but do not force it; the porcelain tank can crack under pressure. Treat a reluctant nut with Liquid Wrench or WD-40 and wait a few minutes. With the nut undone, pull the assembly from the tank. A new assembly will cost about $15 and to install it, just reverse the procedure above.
If, after all of this the toilet is still not operating correctly we have three final words of advice.
Call a plumber! Get some more simple plumbing tips from our San Diego plumbers.

Fix the Flap.

You have diagnosed the source of the problem with your running toilet and it is the flapper. Or it’s the float. No matter, it has to be fixed before the sound of a mounting water bill drives you nuts. Turn the water off at the valve which is located a few inches above the floor under the tank and flush to mostly empty the tank. You will have to turn the water back on so you can flush to check each attempted repair.

Let’s start with the flapper.

If the water draining from the tank is seeping rather than running it may be that lime or calcium deposits are keeping the flapper or the tank ball from fitting firmly in the outlet pipe. Take a piece of emery cloth or steel wool and burnish the rim of the drain and wipe off the flapper or ball with white distilled vinegar and steel wool. You can probably do this with the part still in place.

If the water is running out faster the ball/flapper may have outlived its usefulness. The flapper especially is prone to rot or to become rigid with age. Those drop-in cleaning tablets that turn the water blue are very hard on rubber and plastic too and many plumbers advise against their use.

The flapper may be getting hung up in the chain that lifts it or the chain may be getting hung up on something. Removing a few links from the chain may solve that problem. Conversely, make sure there is enough slack in the chain for the flapper to relax into position. If the closing mechanism is a tank ball on a wire, check the wire to make sure it is directly above the water outlet and is straight. Straighten the wire if possible; if not it will have to be replaced.

If a new flapper or tank ball must be installed, remove the old one – on both toilets in my house this is as simple as unsnapping the arms of the flapper from either side of the valve housing; tank balls unscrew – and take it with you to the hardware store to make sure you get the right replacement part. To install merely reverse the procedure for removing it. That’s it!

Stopping the water from coming into the tank is a bit more complicated than stopping it from leaking out. We will tackle this next. Get some more simple plumbing tips from our San Diego plumbers.

The Toilet Doctor is in.

For such a simple mechanism there sure are a lot of things that can go wrong with a toilet.

The “hope they never happen” problems are septic or sewer backups, clogs, or a cracked or broken tank or bowl or a leak from under the toilet.

Minor toilet problems generally have the same symptom, running water, so the diagnosis may take more time than the repair. The problem is sometimes so subtle you can’t even be sure it is happening.  If you are on private water the pump might kick on when it shouldn’t or the running sound stops almost as soon as it starts.  In that case put a dye tablet (town water departments often them for free) or drops of food coloring in the tank then try not to use that toilet for a few hours.  If the water in the bowl changes color even a little water is leaking in.  Now you have to find the source. Read the rest of this entry »

Like other sink drains, your garbage disposal will need regular maintenance to keep it working properly when you need it to. Every disposal should have a P-trap that can get clogged if too much food is put into it without plenty of water available to flush the system. It is far easier to prevent a clogged disposer drain by following some simple practices.

Read the rest of this entry »